Southgate's Red Emperor opens second venue in Chinatown's old Shark Fin House - Good Food

Southgate stalwart Red Emperor has opened a second restaurant in the former Shark Fin House building in Chinatown after a $1.5 million renovation.

Shark Fin House closed in February 2020, an early victim of COVID. In response to the pandemic's effect on Chinatown, several hotels and restaurants are offering incentives this month for regional Victorians to visit.

Red Emperor's Little Bourke Street location was to become its new home after the redevelopment of Southgate, but the $800 million project has been postponed until 2024. Red Emperor owner Linda Gao says she will keep both restaurants until then.

Red Emperor's original location in the Southgate complex.
Red Emperor's original location in the Southgate complex. Photo: Supplied

Seating 300 over two levels and a mezzanine, Red Emperor Chinatown opened without fanfare on November 6. The menu remains the same, with rolling yum cha trolleys stacked with house-made dim sum at lunch daily and opening from 5.30pm for live seafood and Cantonese classics such as roasted squab, tea-smoked duck and more.

The interiors are more modern than the red walls and golden dragons of the Southgate original, which opened in 1992. While the white tablecloths and suited waiters remain, Chinatown has musk-pink walls, shiny white marble pillars and gold finishes. On the ground floor, a lighting installation made from Egyptian crystal is a tribute to the original location on the Yarra River, while upstairs features murals of colourful phoenixes and flowers.

"We hope we can combine the last 29 years of our experience with the very special Shark Fin House location to help keep this Cantonese style of restaurant in Chinatown," says Gao. 

Hutong Dumpling Bar is one of the restaurants participating in the regional Victorian travel scheme to revitalise Chinatown.
Hutong Dumpling Bar is one of the restaurants participating in the regional Victorian travel scheme to revitalise Chinatown. Photo: Darrian Traynor

Red Emperor is taking function bookings at its new space, from four people catching up in a private room to 50 across a floor.

Open for yum cha Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm, Sat-Sun 11am-1.15pm & 1.30pm-3.30pm; dinner daily 5.30pm-10pm

131 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne, 03 9021 1099, redemperor.com.au

Meanwhile, several hotels and restaurants in the CBD Chinatown precinct are offering discounts to regional Victorians who book a stay before December 20.

As well as incentives such as parking discounts or a reduction on room rates, the hotels have $50 vouchers for nearby restaurants including HuTong Dumpling Bar, Secret Kitchen and The Crane. 

The idea is that those living outside Melbourne who have missed yum cha or char siu pork during lockdown can take a break from Christmas shopping to seek out these and other favourite dishes.

Clifford Qwah outside his flagship Chinatown restaurant Secret Kitchen.
Clifford Qwah outside his flagship Chinatown restaurant Secret Kitchen. Photo: Justin McManus

It's all thanks to the Chinatown Precinct Association, which represents more than 400 traders, and is spending $15,000 of state and local government grants to help the area recover after lockdowns that saw Chinese New Year, Lunar New Year and other key celebrations cancelled.

The campaign culminates with a day of food, dancing, music and lantern-making at Chinatown Square, at the entrance to Cohen Place, on December 19.

Anyone booking a stay at a participating hotel will be asked to provide proof of a residential address in regional Victoria to access discounts.

Details: chinatownmelbourne.com.au

With Emma Breheny

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