The Rule About Not Eating Closed Mussels Is Actually Complicated - Tasting Table

Experimentation shows that mussels generally close their shells when they are stressed — like when they are exposed to heat. So when they are being cooked, their shells don't usually pop open until the muscle that holds them together becomes weak, which means that mussels that stay closed aren't dead, and they aren't likely to cause any problems when the shells are pried apart. By contrast, the Seafood Services Australia study shows that the dead mussels we all worry about either already have open shells that don't shut, or split open as easily as live ones during the cooking process because the muscle holding the shell closed is limp. To make matters more confusing, Ruello found that in a few cases, even if some mussels aren't cooked properly, their shells pop open anyway. As a result, a closed mussel has the same chance of making you sick as an open one — which makes it imperative for you to smell your seafood to detect any bad odors before cooking them.

But what of the belief that closed mussels are bad for you, then? The credit for that goes to an English food writer named Jane Grigson who had warned consumers in the 1970s to ditch the mussels that refuse to open. Two decades later, her advice became common knowledge, and it wasn't until Ruello did his study that the advice was scientifically debunked.