Nine-day travel guide to exploring Tasmania by car - Daily Mercury
Taking a sip of Jansz rose sparkling served from the wooden tray of a vintage ute in a lush vineyard, I savoured both the delicious drop and the views over the Bass Strait.
Signalling the start of a nine-day Tasmanian adventure, the morning sparkling wine was one of at least 20 we tried that day after sneaking into Launceston on the final day of the city's Effervescence festival.
The views, fine bubbles and delectable foodie spreads would prove to set the tone for the whole of our time in the Apple Isle.
Stunning views from the Janz vineyard where winemakers showcased their sparking wine as part of Launceston's Effervescence Festival. Picture: Rae Wilson
As the one Australian state or territory I had yet to tick off the list, having lost my tickets when Ansett collapsed two decades ago, I was stoked to finally explore this southern land of wonder.
Because it was snowing on Cradle Mountain the November weekend we arrived, yes basically summer in the Apple Isle, we did adjust our plans a little to ensure our drive up the winding roads was less Daytona-like around the bends.
Here's a day-by-day guide to our adventure:
Day 1: Arrive mid morning in Hobart, pick up hire car, head straight to Launceston – pronounced Lon-ceston if you want to avoid sounding like a tourist – with a break at historic Ross along the way for one of their famous curried scallop pies at Bakery 31 and a stop by the female factory.
Historic town of Ross in Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
Turns out they don't actually make females but they did shape them in what can only be described as a prison in the post convict era. I believe its sister Cascades female factory is the one featured in Bryce Courtenay's novel The Potato Factory.
Dinner: You cannot go past Cataract on Paterson near the city's harbour. We ordered a huge array of dishes and everything was incredible. I can highly recommend oysters with a twist – spring onion, ginger, coriander and soy served warm.
The Cataract on George menu is exquisite, including the warm oysters with spring onion, ginger, coriander and soy. Picture: Rae Wilson
If you're there with a bunch of people, you could choose a spread including haloumi fries, baked brie, crispy pork belly tacos, duck spring rolls and Tasmanian scallops. For a real treat, the cataract stone delivers steak on a 400C volcanic stone sourced from South Australia.
The Cataract on George menu is exquisite, especially the steak cooked on 400C volcanic stone. Picture: Rae Wilson
Accommodation: Airbnb
Day 2: Having arrived during Launceston's Effervescence festival and being a lover of sparkling wines, the Tamar Valley experience was the perfect introduction to the bubbles in the area.
A tour during Launceston's Effervescence Festival went to and Clover Hill for sparking wine and food tasting. Picture: Rae Wilson
From Jansz to Delamere to Clover Hill – it was hard to pick a favourite. Gourmet food and delicious wine served between bus rides through gorgeous countryside.
Accommodation: Airbnb
Salivate over the food and wine photo gallery >>>>>
Day 3: Up early for breakfast at the Basin Cafe in Cataract Gorge Reserve (go the smoked salmon eggs benny) and then a wander around the gorge checking out the stunning vistas and gorgeous wildlife, though the peacocks stole the show. There's a chairlift and hiking trails if you have time for more than a meander.
Cataract Gorge in Launceston, Tasmania, Australia is perfect for swimming, hiking and admiring the views. Picture: Rae Wilson
There are so many delights on the way to Cradle Mountain if you take a few detours that we hit the road. Stop in at Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm near Elizabeth Town – they even sell raspberry-scented socks – and the nearby bakery.
Sheffield has incredible murals and Bossimi's Bakehouse for a delicious scallop curry pie ($8).
Ashgrove Cheese Factory is nearby too if you like hard cheeses but as a soft and smelly cheese lover, I won't stop by again.
Spotted quolls at Cradle Mountain in Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
Keep a keen eye on the road verges for the wildlife and you'll see many wombats and echidnas scavenging for food. Good idea for both avoiding a hefty excess on the hire car and stopping for close-up snaps on the camera.
Echidnas along the road verge in Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
Check out the photo gallery of Tasmanian wildlife captured on this nine-day trip >>>>
If you get up the mountain early enough, you can fit in a visit to Devils@Cradle.
We spotted a white roo and a wombat in the field near the car park before we even went in for the real show.
Albino kangaroo and wombat at Cradle Mountain. Picture: Rae Wilson
I know we wouldn't want to run into them in the wild but the Tassie devils and the quolls were just adorable behind a fence.
Tasmanian devils at Cradle Mountain in Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
I wanted to pick them up and give them a big squeeze, but then they would bare their teeth and I realised the error of my desire.
Dinner: Depends which night of the week as to what is open but on the Monday night we were there, when it was bordering on snowing, we went to Altitude at Cradle Mountain Hotel. We started with a wallaby rump for entree, served with beetroot, quinoa, walnuts and red wine jus.
The meals at Altitude restaurant at Cradle Mountain are divine. Try the wallaby rump with beetroot, quinoa, walnuts and red wine jus. Picture: Rae Wilson
For main, it's hard to go past the "hot rocks experience" – I chose the seafood tasting plate with salmon, trout and scallops. The sticky date pudding with butterscotch sauce and ice cream is a winner for dessert. Can also recommend the Frogmore Creek pinot noir.
Accommodation: Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village
Hot tips: Book your Cradle Mountain accommodation first and build the rest of the trip around this as it fills up quickly. Also book your $60 Holiday Vehicle Parks Pass in advance in case Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Services staff pull you over.
Get a sneak peek of Cradle Mountain in pictures here >>>
Day 4: Shuttle buses now take hikers into Cradle Mountain National Park so you will need to buy a ticket. Make sure you have enough layers to get you through the early hours until the sun cuts through.
Dove Lake at Cradle Mountain, Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Kirsty Culver
There are a number of short walks near the information centre where wombats, pademelons and the odd snake might make an appearance. But most people head to the end of the line, Dove Lake.
The circuit around Dove Lake is not too taxing but takes about three hours to complete the walk at the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area site.
The other walks to Marions Lookout and the Cradle Mountain Summit have rather big uphill sections that required a higher level of fitness I did not possess.
Donning scarves and gloves as we set off around the steaming lake, we could see the snow-capped peaks above us.
We spotted several wombats, some persistent black birds and a snake on our travels.
Wombat foraging at Dove Lake at Cradle Mountain, Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Kirsty Culver
It's gorgeous but can get very touristy so get there early.
On the way back there are some other nice walks through the rainforest; Rainforest-Pencil Pine Falls is particularly nice and you might spot a few more wombats.
Dinner: We went to Penny Royal Restaurant and Wine Bar back in Launceston. Had calamari and salmon. Not bad but not the best food we had eaten.
Accommodation: Airbnb
Day 5: Making our way over to Tasmania's east coast was as much about the scenery as the stops along the way.
If you have time, drop by Bridgestowe Lavender Farm but otherwise go straight to St Columba Falls which is one of the state's 60 "great short walks".
Photo gallery showcasing the best of the Apple Isle >>>
We meandered through a cool rainforest to spectacular views of a waterfall powerfully cascading down a rock face with green farmland as the backdrop.
From there we dropped into Pyengana Dairy's Holy Cow Cafe where I could not resist sending some smelly goodness back to Queensland and then checked out some more waterfalls.
St Columba Falls in Tasmania. Picture: Rae Wilson
We went straight for the Bay of Fires which extends from Binalong Bay to Eddystone Point.
The sand is white and the ocean graduates between aqua and turquoise.
Views of Tasmania's picturesque east coast. Picture: Rae Wilson/Kirsty Culver
We then made our way south along the Tasman Highway taking in the spectacular views on our way to Bicheno.
Views of Tasmania's picturesque east coast. Picture: Rae Wilson/Kirsty Culver
As a Victorian child, I was lucky enough to watch the fairy penguins return to Phillip Island after a big day hunting in the ocean many times.
I saw them up close on the beach and on the sand paths as they hurried back to find their young, before the huge concrete monstrosity was erected to protect these cute waddling sea creatures from the thousands of tourists hoping for a glimpse.
But watching the Bicheno penguins come to shore far outweighed any expectation or memory I had. Check out the photo gallery >>>>
They literally brushed past my legs on their way to find their families and the knowledgeable guides were able to explain each call to the young and the spouses.
The penguins at Bicheno return to their families after a big day catching food in the ocean off Tasmania. Picture: Bicheno Penguin Tours
It was truly incredible watching them come in waves from the ocean just after dark. What a special experience.
Dinner: Lobster Shack – right on the water at 40 Waubs Esplanade. The wait is lengthy but worth it. The oysters are divine as is the salmon and the seafood chowder.
Accommodation: Airbnb
Day 6: Wander around Freycinet National Park, checking out Coles Bay and Honeymoon Bay before climbing uphill through the iconic Hazards range with pink granite peaks to a rocky lookout over Wineglass Bay.
Wineglass Bay, Tasmania. Picture: Rae Wilson
The outcrop of wild, pristine coastline is considered one of the top 10 beaches in the world. But its name comes not from the shape of the bay but rather from its darker whale hunting history turning the bay the rich hue of a deep red wine.
Incredible oysters at Devil's Corner, Tasmania. Picture: Rae Wilson
We headed south toward Port Arthur, stopping in at Devil's Corner for some of the best oysters on the island, mussels and bubbles.
If you have time to duck off the beaten path to Melshell Oysters too, that's a whole other taste sensation.
Incredible oysters at Melshell Oysters, Tasmania. Picture: Rae Wilson
And Josef Cromy Wines at Relbia are worth a sip or two too.
Dinner: Fox and Hounds Restaurant. This Tudor-style pub has delicious schnittys, pizza, pies and seafood on offer. Great atmosphere and accommodating staff.
Accommodation: Four Seasons Waterfront Villas – can highly recommend.
Day 7: Having written a thesis-like analysis of the Tasmanian tourism industry's challenges after the Port Arthur massacre for my tourism degree at university, it was surreal heading back there more than 20 years later as a tourist myself.
Port Arthur in Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
Before my trip, Tasmania had once again become THE place to visit, if the Facebook and Instagram accounts of my friends was anything to go by.
The Apple Isle was busy but Port Arthur particularly so, yet it was sobering and haunting at the same time.
Take a look inside a place where both the historic and modern histories combine to create a powerful place for reflection>>>
Understanding the peninsula's history as a penal colony and then walking around the memorial garden where 35 people were killed and 23 wounded in the 1996 massacre combined to offer a haunting experience.
The latter happened when I was an adult and I witnessed the huge policy shifts in Australia as a result so that space was particularly poignant for me personally.
Memorial for the 1996 massacre at Port Arthur in Tasmania. Picture: Rae Wilson
But I have always found our convict heritage of great interest and imagining life for those imprisoned and the families tasked with keeping the colony in order was fascinating.
It's worth doing a tour to absorb all the interesting titbits too.
Port Arthur in Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
On the path back to Hobart, where we first landed and made a beeline for Launceston, it's worth dropping by historic Richmond too to see the early houses, jail, church, graveyard and bridge, the latter built in the 1820s.
Richmond's heritage-listed arch bridge is the oldest stone span bridge in Australia. The foundation stone for the bridge was laid on December 11, 1823 and construction continued using convict labour until completion in 1825. Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
The Sweets and Treats lolly shop brought my inner child much happiness but don't miss a boutique vineyard named Every Man and His Dog on the way out of town. The his and her cabernet sauvignon is a rarity in Tassie's cool climate which works best for white wine and sparkling wine grapes.
Loretta and Andy don't get many barrels of the red stuff but it's top notch alongside their white offerings.
Dinner: Mures Upper Deck Restaurant, Victoria Dock, Hobart. Start with the scallops and take your pick of the mains – you can't go wrong.
Steak at Mures Upper Deck at Victoria Dock Harbour in Hobart, Tasmania. Picture: Rae Wilson
Accommodation: Airbnb
Day 8: Take a ferry to Mona – Tasmania's Museum of Old and New Art. Take the lift to the bottom floor and start with a cocktail at Void Bar before making your way up through the floors.
Wombats spotted in Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
Mona houses the kind of exhibitions that make you think and stretch your imagination; defining them is pointless. Just go and enjoy.
Enjoy Salamanca Market every Saturday from 8.30am to 3pm – food, craft, bric-a-brac and great entertainment.
Salamanca Market is packed with food, crafts and bric-a-brac in Hobart every Saturday. Picture: Rae Wilson
Dinner: Blue Eye, 1/1 Castray Esplanade. Can recommend the oysters, scallops, seafood linguine and mixed grill. Every bubbles we tried was divine.
Day 9: Take a drive up Mount Wellington but be prepared for the temperature to drop several degrees before you get to the top. Stunning views over Hobart and surrounds. Stop in for breakfast at Ginger Brown Cafe on the way up or lunch on the way down.
Views of Hobart from Mount Wellington. Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
Drop by Seven-Mile beach for a final breath of fresh Tassie air before heading back to the airport.
We packed a lot into nine days but goodness, there's a lot more. We will be back.
A daisy-lined Seven-mile beach in Tasmania, Australia. Picture: Rae Wilson
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