Shellfish worth shelling out for — Ravinder Bhogal recipes - Financial Times

© Aaron Graubart

The bounty could never have lasted — wild fish stocks worldwide have been depleted desperately by decades of overfishing. The Marine Conservation Society says that aquaculture (fish farming) is crucial if humans still wish to eat fish far into the future.

The industry is by no means perfect. Much like factory farms that use intensive methods to produce meat and poultry, aquaculture is plagued with problems. Poor standards cause parasite infestations, waste, disease and environmental damage. Cheap, plentiful supplies of shellfish can also come at a human cost, with poorly paid labourers harvesting noxious swamps in countries where there is little regulation.

None of this evokes much pleasure, of course, but developments in British aquaculture have led to some excellent — and ethical — homegrown shellfish. John Holmyard, managing director of Offshore Shellfish in Devon, is a pioneer of growing mussels in the sea as opposed to estuaries, where the water is often polluted. Mussels are "one of the most sustainable sources of food", he says. "They grow naturally with no supplementary feed or growth accelerants, clinging to stocking-like ropes. As well as being healthy and nutritious, they have a very low impact on the environment." He points out that mussel farming also provides coastal communities with welcome economic opportunities.

Mussels are not the only glistening pin-ups of British shellfish sustainability. In Scotland, Loch Fyne Seafarms cultivates delicate queen scallops — a fantastic alternative to dredged ones — while in Lincolnshire, Ralph Maxwell of FloGro farms impressive Pacific whiteleg prawns that can reach a weight of 25g each without relying on chemicals, antibiotics or unsustainable feeds. Before the pandemic, Maxwell supplied Yotam Ottolenghi's restaurants and Harrods.

Farmed like this, scallops and prawns can be expensive, but perhaps shellfish of this quality should be a luxury — to be enjoyed infrequently, with the added pleasure of reducing pressure on our precious seas.

Mussels with Miso, Ginger and Udon Noodles

© Aaron Graubart

Serves four

1. Cook the udon noodles according to packet instructions and set aside.

2. In the meantime, bring 1.5l water to the boil, stir in ginger, dashi powder and soy sauce and simmer. Stir to dissolve the dashi and then add the mussels. Simmer for 3-4 minutes or until they have opened up.

3. In a separate bowl, whisk about 250ml of the mussel stock with miso to combine and then return to the pan. Finish with a few drops of sesame oil.

4. Divide the noodles among four bowls. Ladle over miso and mussels and serve immediately.

Scallops with Lime Pickle Butter and Bhaji Scraps

© Aaron Graubart

Serves four

For the bhaji scraps

1. Heat a grill to high.

2. In a saucepan, melt the butter and, once it starts foaming, continue to cook for two minutes over a low heat until it begins to smell nutty. Take off the heat and stir in the lime pickle purée. Set aside.

3. To make the bhaji scraps, sift the flours and baking powder into a bowl, then add the madras curry powder, coriander and a good sprinkling of salt. Mix in about four tablespoons of cold water to make a thick batter — add a splash more if it feels too stiff.

4. Spoon the lime pickle over the scallops and grill for about five minutes or until just cooked through.

5. Heat the oil for deep frying over a medium heat. Dip your fingers into the batter and carefully flick it into the hot oil. Cook for two minutes or until golden brown, then remove with a slotted spoon. Drain on kitchen paper.

6. Finish the scallops with a squeeze of lemon, scatter over scraps and garnish with coriander. Serve immediately.

Prawns with Curry Leaf and Oats

Serves four

1. Heat the oil in a wok over a medium heat. Season the cornflour with sea salt and stir in the peppercorns. Dip the prawns in the beaten egg, dredge with the cornflour and fry in batches for about a minute and a half or until they have turned pink and opaque. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Strain the oil into a heatproof bowl. Wipe the wok with kitchen paper and return it to the heat.

2. Melt the butter. Mix the oats with sugar and season with a little sea salt. Once the butter is foaming, fry the garlic and chilli until golden and fragrant. Add the curry leaves and spring onions. Once they have crisped up, add the oats and fry until they are crisp and browned. Now add the prawns and toss for 30 seconds. Serve with juicy wedges of lime.

Ravinder Bhogal is chef-patron of Jikoni in London; jikonilondon.com. Follow her on Instagram @cookinboots

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