Exploring ElNico, Brooklyn's Top Destination For Mexican Fare With A Global Flair - Forbes
While New York has undergone some massive transformations since the dawn of the 21st century, few neighborhoods have evolved as drastically as Williamsburg. Prized for its scenic waterfront and close proximity to Manhattan, this sprawling district has amassed a wealth of high-end accommodations and polished restaurants over the past decade—and to experience both in one fell swoop, there's no better destination than elNico, a dazzling dining venue housed within the newly-opened Penny Williamsburg.
Decked out in verdant vegetation, bright pops of color, and gorgeous skyline views from the rooftop deck, the restaurant offers an electric atmosphere found just a few floors above the hotel lobby—and while elNico has gained acclaim for its vibrant interior, the spot is no slouch when it comes to fine food and drink either. During a visit, diners can discover a wealth of carefully-curated dishes courtesy of Executive Chef Fer Serrano, each one showcasing the rich flavors of Mexico City with an added international flair.
"The menu at elNico is rooted in Mexican culture presented in a modern, yet casually elegant way," says Serrano. "It's a love letter to the food I grew up eating in Mexico City combined with influences from living, working, and traveling around the world. We're using as many local, seasonal ingredients as possible alongside staples of a Mexican kitchen." And while the menu layout consists of just small plates, sharing plates, and dessert, each individual dish at elNico builds upon classic national cuisine accentuated with glimpses into Serrano's real life experiences.
Mole has played a central role in Mexican cuisine for centuries on end, and in Serrano's kitchen, this traditional sauce takes on new life in the form of pink mole, a particularly colorful small plate that's a must-try for first-time diners. Loaded with beets, tahini, fennel, and kumquat kosho, this dazzling dish draws ample inspiration from a previous trip to Greece, incorporating Aegean ingredients into a time-honored culinary staple from the heart of Mexico. For the pulpo pibil, Serrano presents a contemporary spin on her mother's traditional cochinita pibil recipe, marrying fried octopus, xnipec (a traditional spicy sauce from the Yucatán Peninsula), and toum (a Lebanese garlic sauce) to highlight the flavors of both Caribbean Mexico and the Levant—yet when it comes to cuisine that truly transcends borders, Serrano points to one plate in particular.
"One dish that really encompasses this hybrid of Mexican meets the world is the scallop aguachile," she notes. "It's raw scallops in aguachile but the sauce is Thai-inspired using galangal, coconut milk, and red onion to make a beautiful natural pink aguachile. The dish is topped with pearl onion, Thai chili, and cilantro and comes with tostadas, just as how we'd eat it in Mexico." And given elNico's deep affinity for the culinary culture of Mexico, it comes as no surprise that the venue has mastered the art of agave cocktails as well, offering a stellar drinks menu crafted by James Beard Award winner Leo Robitschek.
While elNico has made a name for itself in recent months thanks to its culinary prowess, visitors can also find particularly cozy accommodations just a few floors below. While each of the 118 rooms across the Penny Williamsburg offer in-unit kitchenettes complete with a microwave and mini-fridge, the property's Your Majesty suite serves as the perfect base for a luxurious staycation in the city, equipped with 700 square feet of space alongside two full bathrooms and a private outdoor terrace. And as an added bonus, the property offers a wealth of other amenities ranging from free coffee to complimentary bicycles, allowing guests to get their caffeine fix, set off to explore the neighborhood, and return just in time for a spectacular dinner bathed in the glow of sunset.
Williamsburg is no stranger to excellent restaurants, but few venues across the neighborhood can match the exuberant energy and far-reaching culinary inspiration found at elNico. From fried oyster tacos to avocado-loaded carne asada, there's no shortage of incredible dishes up for grabs, each one specially designed to accentuate the rich culinary stylings of Mexico and nations far beyond its borders. As you plan your next food-focused foray into the heart of Brooklyn, be sure to save some room on the itinerary for a meal at this promising new spot.
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