The evolving pantry: A dozen international flavor boosters to have in your kitchen - Atlanta Journal Constitution

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The evolving pantry: A dozen international flavor boosters to have in your kitchen - Atlanta Journal Constitution Posted: 05 Feb 2020 04:45 AM PST A few months ago, I got a head start on my 2020 resolution to win my war on clutter. As I tidied my kitchen with a thoroughness that would make Marie Kondo proud, it became crystal-clear how much my cooking had evolved and taken on more of a global flavor since I started reviewing cookbooks for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution one year ago. Bottles of barely used pomegranate molasses and fish sauce that had hogged valuable shelf space for years were now almost empty. Containers of harissa and gochujang stood in spots previously occupied by over-the-hill jars of salsa and barbecue sauce. Freshly replenished supplies of tahini and kimchi hid jars of peanut butter and hamburger dills languishing behind them. With each deluge of new releases came a world of new culinary avenues to explore, using flavor boosters from other cultures designed to save time and money — no need for mortars and pestles and a rack-full of exotic spices. I shook up our familiar dinner routines with Vietnamese-style stir-fries, tropical-scented curries of Thailand, and heady grain salads of the Middle East. As I got more acquainted with the ingredients from each of these traditional cuisines, I found more contemporary ways of using them for everyday cooking. With so many of these condiments now readily available in any supermarket, it's easy to get overwhelmed. I've narrowed my focus to a dozen of the most versatile staples I've found in the international aisles that offer endless possibilities for exciting, low-hassle eating, while keeping kitchen clutter at bay. Coconut milk This nondairy alternative to milk or cream is fundamental to most Thai curries and adds silky body to a range of other stews, braises, soups and sauces. Open a can, have a jar of curry paste and bottle of fish sauce at the ready, and you're well on your way to a delicious dinner. Be sure to use full-fat, unsweetened coconut milk rather than sugary cream of coconut, which is mostly used for pina coladas. Fish sauce A few shakes of this pungent, prized product of Vietnam instantly adds dimension to a stir-fry, curry, noodle dish or marinade. Made of heavily salted, fermented fish, it's the very definition of "the fifth flavor" known as umami and has become as ubiquitous in Western kitchens as soy sauce. Garlic, ginger and lime juice are some of its favorite playmates. Cooked down with sugar and aromatics, it becomes the tableside dipping sauce known as nuoc cham. Quality and flavor vary quite a bit from one brand to the next; many cookbook authors swear by the purer taste of Red Boat, which contains no MSG or sugar. Gochujang This concentrated hot chile paste fortified with fermented soybeans, glutinous rice and sugar is an essential component in Korean classics like bulgogi, and it's won a steady following in this country for its role in myriad other dishes, including barbecue sauce for grilled meats and spicy sauces for noodles. Look for it in small tubs or squeeze bottles at any supermarket. Some labels come with spice level indicators; taste before using and adjust amounts according to your heat tolerance. Harissa Ubiquitous to Moroccan and Tunisian kitchens, this puree of roasted sweet and hot peppers, olive oil and spices (often caraway, cumin and coriander) is as versatile as ketchup. Like salsa or spaghetti sauce, seasonings can vary, as can the consistency — some are thick as paste, others are loose enough for dipping or pouring. Most are red; some are green. Recipes for homemade versions abound online. Drizzle it in a falafel-stuffed pita pocket, swirl it into a creamy soup, slather it all over a pork roast before braising. Kimchi Essential to Korean cooking for thousands of years, these fiery, pungent relishes of fermented cabbage and other vegetables come in more than 100 varieties, and can make themselves at home even on an all-American Thanksgiving buffet. Serve it as a side dish or pickle, stir a spoonful into a slaw or a cold noodle dish, or add as a flavorful garnish to a brothy soup. Kimchi stores well for weeks in the fridge but gets sharper and tangier with age. Miso Made of fermented soybeans and grains, this salty, earthy paste is dissolved in hot water for soup to start a sushi meal. But that's just the beginning. Its complex, umami-rich flavor is turning up everywhere these days: in salad dressings, marinades, mashed potatoes, flavored butters — even cookie dough. The longer it ages, the stronger the taste. Salty-sweet white miso (shiro) is the mildest; red miso the most robust; yellow somewhere in between. Pomegranate molasses Throughout the Middle East, pomegranate juice is boiled down into a syrup with a touch of sugar and acid, bottled, and drizzled over grilled meats or roasted vegetables, and mixed into sauces, dips and salads. This intensely tart, rich-tasting condiment has become increasingly popular here as well — in kitchens as well as bars. I've never seen it in a regular grocery store — I get it at Your DeKalb Farmers Market — but it's easy to make at home by reducing pomegranate juice and sugar into a syrup. Interestingly, Andrea Nguyen gives a recipe for it in "Vietnamese Food Any Day" (Ten Speed, $24.99) and suggests it as a substitute for harder-to-find tamarind, which she combines with fish sauce and other Southeast Asian ingredients in a shrimp stir-fry. Sambal oelek and Sriracha These two tongue-searing Southeast Asian chile sauces contain nearly identical ingredients, but the textures are entirely different. Sold in small jars, sambal oelek is a coarse mixture of crushed hot red peppers with seeds intact, salt, sometimes vinegar or citrus juice, maybe garlic and/or sugar. Stir in a spoonful to punch up a soup, a sauce or a marinade. Sriracha is smooth, slightly sweeter than Tabasco, and packaged in squeeze bottles to be squirted onto most anything that needs some kick, from scrambled eggs to bloody marys. Tahini Rich in protein and other nutrients, this thick paste of crushed sesame seeds is best known here for its role in hummus. Mixed with yogurt or another creamy base, it also makes a great dip, sandwich spread or sauce for falafel, and has many uses in desserts. Thai curry paste Packed with chile peppers and aromatics such as lemongrass, Thai ginger, and garlic, those little red and green jars in the Asian condiment section deliver big flavor on short notice. Stir a spoonful into coconut milk for a rich and complexly flavored soup base that's ready in minutes. Whisk a little into yogurt or mayo for a dressing or a dip. Or add it to a peanut sauce for Asian noodles. Thai sweet chile sauce This crimson mixture of chiles, sugar, vinegar and garlic thickened with cornstarch is at once spicy, tangy and sweet — the ideal dipping sauce for a spring roll, but also great for glazing a pork tenderloin, dumping over a block of cream cheese and serving with crackers, stirring into a mayonnaise dressing for shrimp salad, or adding to a stir-fry. RECIPES Here are a few easy ways to explore the possibilities of some of my favorite international condiments beyond their traditional uses — one from the bar of one of my favorite neighborhood haunts, the others from cookbooks I've reviewed and websites I've perused. Rosemary's Baby Kasey Emmett, who heads the bar program at the Pinewood in Decatur, collaborated with bartenders Martín Aramayo and Zachary Williams on this aromatic, cool-weather cocktail whose sweetness is balanced by the deep tartness of pomegranate syrup along with bitters and a dash of salt. A splash of pomegranate juice stirred into a glass of club soda also makes a fabulous nonalcoholic drink. Recipe: Rosemary's Baby 1 dash angostura bitters 1 dash Regan's orange bitters Table salt 1 3/4 ounces bourbon 3/4 ounce Cocchi sweet vermouth 1/4 ounce pomegranate molasses Ice 1 piece orange peel 1 sprig fresh rosemary Chill a mixing glass and a rocks glass. Add bitters and sprinkle of table salt to the mixing glass. Then add the bourbon, vermouth and pomegranate molasses. Add ice cubes. Stir vigorously to blend, until the mixture turns cloudy. Fill the rocks glass with ice. Strain the cocktail into the glass. Rub both sides of the orange peel well over the rim of the glass. Pinch the leaves of the rosemary to release the oils and aroma and add to the glass as a garnish. Serves 1. Nutritional information Per serving: Per drink: 133 calories (percent of calories from fat, 0), no protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, no fat, no cholesterol, 271 milligrams sodium. Sambal Shrimp Skewers These shrimp skewers take a quick dip in a savory-sweet, slightly funky, lip-tingling marinade that's then reduced to a syrupy consistency for basting and dipping. The recipe is based on one by New York Times columnist and author Alison Roman. Her version features chunks of chargrilled chicken thighs; I cooked the shrimp I already had in my freezer under a broiler instead and was happy with the result. Served with a side of rice and a salad, it makes a tasty, low-hassle meal in less than half an hour. Recipe: Sambal Shrimp Skewers 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar 1/2 cup unseasoned rice vinegar 1/3 cup sambal oelek 1/4 cup fish sauce 1/4 cup Sriracha 2 teaspoons peeled, finely grated ginger 1 1/2 pounds extra-large shrimp, peeled (leave tails on for more dramatic presentation) Minced chives and lime wedges for garnish, optional 8 bamboo skewers soaked in water at least 1 hour Prepare a grill for medium-high heat, or place a rack in the oven close to the heat source and turn on the broiler to high. Whisk brown sugar, vinegar, sambal oelek, fish sauce, Sriracha and ginger in a large bowl. Add shrimp and toss to coat. Thread 4 or 5 shrimp onto each skewer. Transfer marinade to a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until reduced by half (about 1 cup), 7-10 minutes. Grill or broil shrimp, turning once and basting with reduced marinade, until cooked through, 2-3 minutes per side. Garnish with chives and lime wedges if desired and serve with extra sauce on the side. Serves 4. Nutritional information Per serving: Per serving: 304 calories (percent of calories from fat, 17), 35 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 6 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 261 milligrams cholesterol, 760 milligrams sodium. Miso Sesame Chocolate Chip Cookies Margaret, Irene and Andrew Li call these their "ultimate chocolate cookies," and tasting is believing. Generous dabs of Chinese sesame paste (or tahini) and fermented bean paste (miso) add a subtle nutty, savory flavor to this riff on the cookie classic, with extra wholesomeness and texture provided by oats and spelt flour. It's one of many creative ideas for using these ingredients and other widely available Asian condiments in the Li siblings' "Double Awesome Chinese Food: Irresistible and Totally Achievable Recipes From Our Chinese-American Kitchen" (Roost Books, $35). Recipe: Miso Sesame Chocolate Chip Cookies 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1 1/2 cups spelt or whole-wheat flour 1 cup old-fashioned rolled oats 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup (8 ounces) cold salted butter, cut the size of sugar cubes 1 cup tightly packed brown sugar 1 cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 tablespoons miso paste, preferably white miso for a subtler flavor 2 tablespoons Chinese sesame paste or tahini (or omit and increase the miso by 1 tablespoon) 8 ounces dark chocolate chips or chunks (or substitute white chocolate, if you prefer) Heat the oven to 350 degrees, with 2 racks evenly spaced inside. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats. (The cookies should just fit, but spread them out to 3 baking sheets if you want to ensure they don't run into each other.) Whisk the flours, oats, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Combine the butter and sugars in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed until well combined, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then add the eggs and mix on low speed until uniform. Add the vanilla, miso paste, and sesame paste, then the flour mixture, and continue to mix until the dough is barely coming together. Scrape down the sides of the bowl again and add the chocolate chips, then mix one last time to distribute the chocolate chips throughout the batter. Use a spoon (we use a 2-ounce disher) to scoop out balls of dough and place them evenly on the baking sheets. I aim for 11 cookies per sheet, with a row of 4 cookies, then 3 cookies, then 4 cookies. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, switching the sheets halfway through, until the cookies have flattened and are light golden brown. I like to pull them when they're cooked through on the bottom but still a bit gooey in the center and eat them warm; if you let them cool and wrap them in an airtight container, they'll last for up to 4 days, or in the freezer for up to a month. Makes 22 cookies. Nutritional information Per serving: Per cookie: 275 calories (percent of calories from fat, 42), 4 grams protein, 38 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 13 grams fat (6 grams saturated), 42 milligrams cholesterol, 342 milligrams sodium. Reprinted in arrangement with Roost Books, an imprint of Shambhala Publications Inc. Thai Coconut-Curry Seafood Soup I tested this versatile, flavorful soup from New Orleans chef Tenney Flynn while working with him on his cookbook, "The Deep End of Flavor" (Gibbs Smith, $30), and now it's a favorite of mine as well. A can of coconut milk and a jar of Thai green curry paste are the secret weapons; if you can't find the kaffir lime leaf, some grated lime zest will suffice. This base is easily adaptable to whatever protein you have on hand, including chicken and tofu, or most any vegetable you want to throw in. Recipe: Thai Coconut-Curry Seafood Soup 2 tablespoons salted butter 1 stalk lemongrass, crushed and chopped 1 teaspoon diced fresh ginger 1 clove garlic, minced 2 teaspoons diced shallot 1 kaffir lime leaf 2 teaspoons Thai green curry paste 5 sprigs basil stems and leaves, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro stems and leaves 4 cups fish stock or chicken broth, divided 2 (13.5-ounce) cans coconut milk 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 4 to 6 heads baby bok choy, trimmed and coarsely chopped 8 collars and cheeks, preferably from 4- to 6-pound fish; 1 pound meaty fish fillet, cut in chunks; or 1 pound peeled wild-caught American shrimp (with heads on, if possible) 1 tablespoon Paul Prudhomme's Magic Seasoning Blend Shrimp Magic or other Creole seasoning Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon fish sauce Thai basil and cilantro leaves for garnish Hot cooked rice for serving Melt the butter in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the crushed lemongrass, ginger, garlic, shallot and kaffir lime leaf; cook and stir a few minutes to soften (do not brown). Add the curry paste, basil and cilantro and raise the heat, stirring for a couple more minutes. Add 3 cups of the stock and the coconut milk. Simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Puree with an immersion blender (or transfer to a regular blender and strain back into the pot). Set a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add bok choy, quickly sear on all sides, and add to the soup. If using fish, season with the Shrimp Magic. Add the remaining oil to the saute pan and quickly sear the pieces in the hot pan until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Put the pieces in the simmering broth. Or add the shrimp, if you are using it. Cook until the fish or shrimp are just cooked through, which should be about 4 minutes, depending on their size. Thin with additional cup of fish stock or chicken broth, if desired. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and add the fish sauce. Add the cilantro and basil garnish. Serve with hot rice, chopsticks and soup spoons. Serves 4. Nutritional information Per serving: Per serving without rice: 844 calories (percent of calories from fat, 76), 30 grams protein, 21 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams fiber, 71 grams fat (49 grams saturated), 206 milligrams cholesterol, 924 milligrams sodium. Harissa-rubbed Pork Shoulder with White Beans and Chard This nearly effortless, incredibly delicious slow-cooked feast from Alison Roman's "Nothing Fancy" (Potter, $32.50) has convinced me why I need to keep a jar of harissa on hand at all times. I used Mina brand, a simple blend of red chile pepper, sweet red bell pepper, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and salt, sold at Kroger. It's a loose sauce as opposed to the paste called for here, but still works great. I read that traditional versions commonly contain toasted and ground caraway, cumin and coriander seeds, so I added a teaspoon or two of each, and highly recommend these additions if yours doesn't already contain them, and you like some extra spice. There are many recipes for harissa from scratch if you're ambitious. Recipe: Harissa-rubbed Pork Shoulder with White Beans and Chard 4 pounds boneless pork shoulder Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup harissa paste 1/4 cup distilled white vinegar 3 tablespoons tomato paste 3 tablespoons light brown sugar 4 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 1/2 cups water 2 (15-ounce) cans small white beans, such as cannellini or Great Northern, drained and rinsed 1 large bunch chard, stems removed, leaves torn into bite-sized pieces 1 preserved lemon, seeds removed, thinly sliced 1 cup cilantro, tender leaves and stems 1 lemon, halved Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Season the pork with salt and pepper and place in a large Dutch oven. Combine the harissa paste, vinegar, tomato paste, brown sugar and garlic in a medium bowl. Smear the harissa mixture all over the pork, getting into all nooks and crannies, and add the water. Place the lid on the pot and roast, until the pork is nearly falling-apart tender, 3 to 3 1/2 hours. Remove the lid, add the beans, and season with salt and pepper. Increase the oven temperature to 425 degrees and return the pot to the oven, uncovered. Roast until the beans have soaked up all the liquid and the top of the pork is deeply golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer the pork to a cutting board. Add the chard and preserved lemon to the beans and stir to wilt the leaves. Slice pork into 1/2-inch-thick slices (if it starts to shred, that's fine). Transfer the beans and greens to a large serving plate or shallow bowl and place the pork on top (alternatively, place pork on top of the beans in the pot and serve directly from there). Scatter with cilantro and serve the lemon alongside for squeezing over. DO AHEAD: This can be made up to 3 days ahead, sans chard, stored in its pot, and refrigerated. Reheat before adding chard. Serves 6-10. Nutritional information Per serving: Per serving, based on 6: 850 calories (percent of calories from fat, 51), 67 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams fiber, 48 grams fat (17 grams saturated), 169 milligrams cholesterol, 780 milligrams sodium. Korean Spicy Chilled Noodles (Bibim Guksu) Gochujang, a Korean fermented red pepper paste, gives this Asian pasta salad its refreshingly assertive flavor, with an extra wallop of spice and crunch from jarred cabbage kimchi (available in the refrigerator cases of some supermarkets as well as Your DeKalb Farmers Market). Add some quick protein if you like by topping each portion with a halved or quartered hard- or soft-cooked egg. The recipe is from Christopher Kimball's "Milk Street: The New Rules: Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook" (Little, Brown, $35), a terrific source of practical ideas using readily available global ingredients. Be careful not to overcook the tender, delicate somen noodles. Recipe: Korean Spicy Chilled Noodles (Bibim Guksu) 3 to 4 tablespoons gochujang 2 1/2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar, plus more as needed 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 1/2 tablespoons white sugar 1 1/2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted, divided 1 cup drained cabbage kimchi, thinly sliced, plus 2 tablespoons kimchi juice 1/2 English cucumber 8 ounces somen noodles Ice Kosher salt 4 scallions, thinly sliced on the diagonal Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the gochujang, vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, 1 tablespoon sesame seeds and the kimchi juice. Set aside. Thinly slice the cucumber on the diagonal. Stack several slices and cut lengthwise into matchsticks. Repeat with the remaining slices. Set aside. Add the noodles to the boiling water and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 2 minutes. Drain in a colander, then add 1 cup ice cubes on top. Rinse the noodles under cold running water, tossing constantly, until completely cool to the touch. Remove any unmelted ice cubes, then drain well. Add the drained noodles to the gochujang mixture, along with the kimchi. Toss, then taste and season with salt and additional vinegar. Transfer to a shallow serving bowl, then mound the scallions and cucumber on top. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon sesame seeds. Toss together just before serving. Serves 4. Nutritional information Per serving: Per serving: 320 calories (percent of calories from fat, 23), 9 grams protein, 54 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 8 grams fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 1,897 milligrams sodium. Thai Basil Beef with Peanut Salsa Tieghan Gerard's "Half-Baked Harvest: Super Simple" (Potter, $29.99) is full of inspiration for a well-stocked global larder. My husband and I love this simple sweet-and-sour stir-fry that owes its distinctive character to Thai sweet chile sauce, which most of us recognize as the dipping sauce for spring rolls in Thai restaurants. Recipe: Thai Basil Beef with Peanut Salsa 8 ounces rice noodles 2 tablespoons sesame oil 1 pound lean ground beef 3 garlic cloves, minced or grated 1 (1-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated 1/2 cup Thai sweet chile sauce 1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce 1 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped, plus more for serving Juice of 2 limes, divided 1/2 cup salted peanuts, chopped 1 red Fresno pepper, seeded and chopped 3 carrots, shaved into ribbons 2 green onions, thinly sliced Fresh mint leaves, for serving (optional) Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the rice noodles and cook according to the package directions, until softened. Make the sauce. In a large skillet, heat the sesame oil over medium heat. When the oil shimmers, add the beef and cook, breaking up the beef with a wooden spoon, until browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute more. Stir in the sweet chile sauce, soy sauce and 1/2 cup of water and cook until the sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the rice noodles and cook, tossing to coat, until warmed through, about 1 minute. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the basil and half of the lime juice. Make the salsa. In a small bowl, stir together the peanuts, the remaining lime juice, and the Fresno pepper. Divide the noodles among four bowls and top each with peanut salsa, carrots, green onions, and mint, if desired. Serves 4. Nutritional information Per serving: Per serving: 503 calories (percent of calories from fat, 39), 14 grams protein, 64 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams fiber, 22 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 27 milligrams cholesterol, 737 milligrams sodium. Read the AJC Fall Dining Guide: The Noodle Edition Read more stories like this by liking Atlanta Restaurant Scene on Facebook, following @ATLDiningNews on Twitter and @ajcdining on Instagram. Support real journalism. 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